Old Cairo is itself a story-book and a dream—labyrinths of narrow alleys redolent of aromatic secrets; Arabesque balconies and oriels nearly meeting above the cobbled streets; maelstroms of Oriental traffic with strange cries, cracking whips, rattling carts, jingling money, and braying donkeys; kaleidoscopes of polychrome robes, veils, turbans, and tarbushes; water-carriers and dervishes, dogs and cats, soothsayers and barbers; and over all the whining of blind beggars crouched in alcoves, and the sonorous chanting of muezzins from minarets limned delicately against a sky of deep, unchanging blue...
The opening of the tomb of Tutankhamun in November 1922, and the breathtaking beauty of the treasures within, sparks a wave of Egyptomania that washes over the entire world. Egyptian jewelry is worn by flappers and dowagers alike; men wear
tarbouches (the Arabic equivalent of the fez) to work on Wall Street, and smoking
hashish from sheesha water pipes becomes a fashionable pastime.
Cairo profits from the attention of the rest of the world, and tourists in search of the wonders of Egypt fill its hotels and bazaars. The greatest city in Africa, and one of the great cities in the world, by the mid-1920s Cairo’s population has risen to 850,000 (one in ten of whom are foreigners). It is the capital of the oldest continuously identifiable culture in the world, with the dynasties of north and south Egypt stretching back to 3100 BCE, 5,000 years before the investigators set foot on the desert sands. Guarded effortlessly by the desert and the sea, the heritage of Egypt is unparalleled in its architectural achievement, cultural sophistication, and its general stability. Only China is able to rival its cultural heritage.
EGYPT IN 1925
The 1920s are a time of turmoil for Egypt, with frequent riots and political killings. A British protectorate for about 40 years, Egypt regains most of its internal independence in 1922 following the 1919 revolution led by Saad Zaghloul. However, the British reserve four areas of discretionary powers concerning imperial communications (including the Suez Canal), the Sudan, the defense of Egypt and the Canal, and the protection of foreign interests and of minorities. Such reservations are far removed from full independence, and resistance to the British presence, in the form of civil unrest, is ongoing throughout the period. Tourists visiting Cairo in the 1920s find themselves in the middle of a powder keg of political intrigue, with members of rival political parties literally fighting each other in the streets. British garrisons remain at the Suez Canal, and armed British intervention within Egypt is a normal occurrence. This continual interference prompts general resentment toward foreigners, regardless of their nationality.
One particularly sensitive area is the movement of ancient artifacts and treasure out of Egypt by foreign archaeologists. In consequence, the Egyptian national government strictly polices such activity. Tourists will not receive much help from the Egyptian authorities when it comes to the removal of items from the land of the Nile; surreptitious removal is a criminal offense, and applicable charges (including “damage of antiquities”) will be pressed if caught, resulting in up to a year in prison if found guilty. The British may decide to intervene if such charges seem unfounded, but do nothing to aid common criminals.
The United States’ ambassador and consuls don’t do much besides weighing the facts presented in court, or writing courteous letters on the plaintiff ’s behalf. Little better can be expected from the representatives of other nations with resident consuls in Egypt. However, it is possible to obtain a license for the shipping of antiquities from the Egyptian Museum, if the authorities can be convinced that the items in question are of minor historical interest. As can be expected, there is a thriving black market trade in such licenses, be they forgeries or carefully “adapted” genuine articles.
Cairo
Amid all the political chaos, there remains the allure of Cairo itself. This is, after all, the city of the Arabian Nights, with a storyteller on every corner and jugglers and snake charmers aplenty to distract the unwary. Ezbekiya Gardens is a park of about 20 acres. It is a major center within the city, and forms the hub of European expatriate life in Cairo. Many of the city’s finest restaurants, cafes, and nightclubs are located around Ezbekiya. The main post office is on its south side, the American consulate on the north. On the west side are most of the European-style hotels in the city, including the world-famous Shepheard’s, and to the east are financial institutions, such as the stock exchange. Still further east there are some excellent shops to be found, but these soon peter out where the so-called “New Quarter” meets the Old City.
Within the Old City are the narrow, winding alleys and crowded marketplaces so stereotypically Middle Eastern. Perhaps the most famous bazaar (besides the Khan el-Khalili) is the Muski, a thriving market where everything from silks to fine jewelry, spices to rugs—and if you know where to look, black market weapons, including guns—can be found. The true heart of Cairo, the Old City also contains most of the classic Arabic architecture, though average homes and shops are simple two to four-story, flat-roofed buildings made from whitewashed mud brick and tile. Largely built during the Middle Ages, the streets are shadowed by the overhanging upper stories of their buildings, and visitors must beware of wastewater casually flung from the upper levels in the poorest areas.
Along the east bank of the Nile, in the district known as Kasr el-Dubara, the Garden City, are most of the governmental buildings and palaces of the nobility, as well as fancy detached residences and expensive flats. Not far south of the Kasr el-Nil Bridge is the British Consulate General, often referred to as “the Residency.” On the other side of the bridge lies Gezira Island, home to the private Sporting Club set up by the British military in 1882.
South of the Old City, beyond the Citadel of Saladin perched on its rocky outcrop, lies the windswept wilderness of the City of the Dead, where only rock, sand, tombs, and mausoleums exist. Investigators may want to explore such an eerie and dread place, though there is little there of interest as far as their current quest is concerned.
Affluence and Poverty
Most of Cairo is shockingly poor, and beggars abound. Some are con artists but many genuinely suffer from an array of physical deformities, including missing arms, legs, and noses, as well as twisted spines. Tourists with medical training can easily diagnose rickets and advanced cases of syphilis as they move through such poor neighborhoods. Schistosomiasis, a water-borne parasitic disease that often causes a swollen belly, is endemic. Beggars see a lot, though, and are easier to find than the police. Street people can give directions and other information if the investigators speak even a little Arabic and are generous with their piastres. Not too much, though, as openly flashing large amounts of cash in the streets marks you out as a potential target for pick-pocketing or robbery.
Getting About in Cairo
Other than a few thoroughfares, Cairo’s streets, particularly in the Old City, are notoriously narrow, crowded, obstructed, and otherwise inaccessible to carriages and motorcars. Apart from pack animals transporting goods, most of Cairo’s traffic is on foot, although an excellent tram network connects many parts of the city. A tourist tramway also bridges the Nile and ends at the Giza pyramids, which lie to the west of the city.
Religion
The dominant religion of Egypt is Islam. Coptic Christians also exist in some numbers, although they are in the minority. Tourists may unwittingly commit offenses against local customs or beliefs through ignorance, such as neglecting to remove their shoes when entering a mosque or ignoring the etiquette of not speaking of worldly matters in such places. Rude tourists tromping about and shouting questions not only risk being corrected, but also being physically removed by justifiably upset Muslims.
The Weather
The heat in Cairo is greatest June to August, with daily highs well over 37 c for months at a time. There is little respite from the sweltering temperatures, even at night. Winter months tend to be cooler, but any rainfall is erratic and negligible, with little more than an inch (2.5 cm) a year, usually in March or October. In the desert, khamsin (dust storms) occur from March to June.
Dining in Cairo
The Ezbekiya, or New Quarter, of Cairo is the hub of European life. The hotel and entertainment district here are the necessaries of life for the traveler abroad. Cairo in the 1920's is the equal of any European city in the quality of its restaurants, cafes, and theaters. Most of these are to be found in the Ezbekiya. There are many in Cairo who simply do not exist in public until after dark, and spend the night moving from one fine restaurant to another, finishing up at a dance until dawn. The young and frivolous wear the latest Paris and London fashions, drink the most expensive cocktails, and take opium and hashish.
HOTEL RESTAURANTS
These are the most common places to dine while in Cairo. The quality of the food is directly related to the quality of the hotel. In many cases the cost of accommodation includes the evening meal, although wines, cocktails and after dinner drinks are extra. Hotel restaurants are good places to meet patrons of the hotel. Dining alone or in small groups may result in sharing a table with other guests if so inclined. All of the best hotels hold dinner dances and concerts during the season, many featuring internationally renowned artists. These evening dances are frequented by gigolos and expensive prostitutes. Dress is formal, and dances begin at dusk and continue well into the early morning.
GROPPI'S
This is the place to be seen in the 1920's in Cairo. Groppi's is a luxurious catering establishment, founded in Cairo around the turn of the century by an Alexandrian Swiss family. Originally housed in a single location (Groppi's) at 11 Sharia Manakh, a second establishment opens in 1924, on Suliman Pasha Square (Midan Suliman) and is named Groppi's Comer House. In addition to fine food, both shops also sell fine china and glassware and silverware. Their primary stock in trade during the day are afternoon teas, aperitifs, confectionery, patisserie and delicatessen style food. At night they serve fine cuisine in the French and British tradition. At the rear of the new restaurant, a garden surrounds a rotunda with a stained glass ceiling. Concerts are held here three times a week during the season, with dinner and supper dances on the other four nights. Dances and concerts were also held at the original restaurant until late 1924, when they were replaced by a string quartet playing nightly.
OTHER RESTAURANTS
Celestino: 4 Sharia Alfi Bey, behind Shepheard's Hotel. Excellent European food and wine, dancing nightly.
Flasch: above Celestino. A more lively dining and party experience, popular with the under thirties. Flasch has private rooms available for meetings.
Ritz: 14 Sharia Tawfiq. An expensive restaurant, with the cost to dine defined by the place's reputation rather than its food.
El-Hati: Sharia Alfi Bey. The best "native" restaurant in Cairo, serving local delicacies in a way that European palates can tolerate. Silver service and modem decor clash with traditional Arab food, which is best eaten with the fingers while seated on the floor.
Luna Park, Parisiana, Suisse, and Brasserie du Nil: all also in Sharia Alfi Bey.
BARS AND EUROPEAN CAFES
New Bar; Mahmussa Bar, and Cafe Khedivial: all in Opera Square. Fine wines, beers and spirits mingle with thick cigar and cigarette smoke. Food available in private booths, mainly European style.
Opera Bar: Opera Square. Drinks only. Popular with the British military.
Many other cafes in the European style crowd the sae'ets in the Ezbekiya district.
This message was last edited by the GM at 21:22, Fri 01 Feb 2019.