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GENERAL INFORMATION


The following rules are the standard rules for GM Chronicler's games.


PARTICIPATION REQUIREMENTS


Players may take up to 2 days to post, however it is encouraged that players try to post as often as they can. If a player has not posted after 3 days, and has failed to send me an email, the character will be removed from the game. Extenuating circumstances may allow reinstatement of the player.


I'm on Central Standard Time (CST), in the United States unless traveling overseas. I spend the day with family on Sundays, so I may or may not post on this day. I travel overseas from November to March to a country where power, water, and internet are fickle. If I fail to post within a few days, don't panic, I will. I've never seen it all go down for more than 5 days unless there is a super storm / typhoon.


I reserve the right to remove anyone from a game or remove the entire game, at any time and without notice.


POSTING


Please try to make your posts full of expression, and detailed in your action or reactions.


When speaking, please use a different color for your speech. OOC color is Orange, and I reserve the colors Red, BOLD, and DarkGreen.


Please include the effects of spells and special abilities that affect your character at the bottom of your post in OOC so that I can easily find and remember them. Please update this information every time you post.


HOUSE RULES & NEED TO KNOW


1) There are not going to be any monster player character races or evil characters in my games


2) I do use psionics in my game.


3)  I have a problem with how to conduct checks when elves pass within 5' feet of a secret door. Having the player make the Search check out of the blue allows for every player to definitely know something is up. So, I've decided to do the players secret door Search checks myself, and only reveal to the player that he's found one if he succeeds. This way of doing it keeps the location of the secret door, well, secret.

4) I will keep track of experience points earned for each player. When a player has gained enough experience to level up, they will be notified. It will be up to the player to update their character sheet accordingly and furnish me with the updated sheet.


5) Please keep your equipment lists updated so that they reflect what has been used, lost, or gained as you play. If you do not have an item listed in your inventory, then you do not have it.


6) When rolling for hit points upon leveling up after 1st level, a roll of ‘1’ may be re-rolled once.


7) A living creature struck for 1/2 or more damage of its initial hit points on the first single attack is considered “Clobbered” allowing for only a partial action on its next turn.


8) Though I want you to roll for skills you think are necessary to the situation you are in, I do need you to be quite specific about why you are rolling it. Direction, location, who, what, where, etc. and any other specifics that will help me know exactly where you are, and what you are doing is a must. If you are searching for something, it takes a full round, and you must be within 10' of the thing being searched. To just roll a search check without specifics is going to get you this reminder.

Please roll all skill checks at once. If you think a skill check might come into play, roll it. I'd rather have the skill check rolled in advance than have to wait for it to be rolled. This also applies to rolling attacks and damage. Roll the damage with every attack even if you think it may not hit.


Example: So, I go 30' south, down the passage GM, and I want to search the 10' wall to the west. That tells me what I need to know. That pinpoints exactly where you are. If there is a secret something in that 10' area, you find it. Remember, I don't go by the 3.5 guidelines when it comes to finding secret doors, and such.


Example: SPOT check roll: I am looking south 40'.


ROLLING INITIATIVE


 1) I will roll initiative for everyone which will save 24 hours of waiting for all the players to roll it. I will then post the list of initiatives with monsters all sharing a single rolled initiative.


 2) Everyone who beats the monsters (again, monsters will all share the SAME initiative) may post their actions first. Those who beat the monsters' initiative can post in any order and I will wait until all those who beat the monsters have had their turn before I will post a detailed summary of the action.


 3) My summary will include all results for all those who beat the monsters' initiative as well as the results of the monsters actions.


 4) At this point EVERYONE can post, in any order, because everyone gets a turn before the monsters get their next turn.


 5) After all players have posted their actions with their necessary dice rolls, I will again post a detailed summary which will include the results of all PC actions (executed in order of posting) followed by the actions and results for the monsters.


 6) This will rinse and repeat until combat is resolved.


In cases where a monster has been slain by another player, I will re-direct a players attack to another monster or make a quick post that a particular monster is slain so others can direct their attacks elsewhere.


SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS


There are many supplements, books, errata’s, and non-core books out there, but I would like players to stick to official WotC books and I might accept things from Dungeon Magazine.

I don’t know every one of the guidelines (rules), nor pretend to. I do plan to be fair, and am always open to hearing a rebuttal to my decisions as long as they are presented in a manner that is not argumentative. I may interpret a guideline differently than another, or I may just outright say that I need to research it. If there is still a disagreement, then I will usually ask others their opinion from outside the game.


CHARACTER CREATION CHECKLIST:


These guidelines are for my Dungeons and Dragons 3.5 games.

I'm allowing almost all character classes and prestige classes, however this is subject to the DM's discretion. We are still not allowing monster races, however.

Mundane and magic item purchases are to be made from the Players Handbook, the Dungeon Masters Guide, and the Complete Adventurer manuals. These items are sold at the stated books cost. If there is a special magic or mundane item from another official 3.5 publication that you wish the DM to consider, then provide the name of the item, and what official publication it can be found in.

Make the DM a separate list of the items purchased, and their cost. At the bottom of the list should be the total amount of money spent and the weight of all your gear. Then, below that, tell the DM how much money you have left over and how it is being stored. (Ex. 20pp, 33 gp, 4 sp, and 3 cp stored in a belt pouch. 20 pp stored in my bag of holding type 1, and 5 pp stored in a hidden storage area in my belt.) I am also allowing letters of credit that can be used anywhere in my worlds.

If you have an animal, especially a familiar, a full set of stats must be provided to the DM for each animal. This needs to be put on your character sheet. Include the name of the animal, and a short description.

NOTE: You are responsible for keeping an up to date character sheet. This sheet is to be provided to the DM before each gaming session. If you fail to write down an item you bought or found earlier in the game, then you do not have the item. If you sell items, trade items, etc… the DM needs a full accounting of the money gained, or items gained in a trade.

I also use the upkeep rules found on page 130 of the DMG.


I will allow any character who wishes to carry a 10' pole to do so at a weight of only 2 lbs. I just believe that the PHB is a bit excessive on the weight of this item. There are many woods that are extremely light, strong, and durable.

I use the 32 point buy system for character generation. All ability scores start at 8. Take 32 points to spread out among all abilities. The point cost for the various scores goes like this (with no base ability lower than 8 and none higher than 18).

Take 32 points to spread out among all abilities. The point cost for the various scores goes like thus (with no base ability lower than 8 and none higher than 18):


Ability score => Point cost
 ==========================
   9 =>1
  10 =>2
  11 =>3
  12 =>4
  13 =>5
  14 =>6
  15 =>8
  16 =>10
  17 =>13
  18 =>16

 Add one point to one of your abilities (gained at 4th level)
 Add one point to one of your abilities (gained at 8th level)
 Add and subtract racial bonuses and penalties.
 Add magic items modifiers that alter ability scores. (see “4. Treasure value” before doing so)

 Change your attack bonus, AC (touch and flat footed too), grapple modifiers, skill modifiers, and saving throw modifiers accordingly.

That’s it. This method ensures that you all start as equals (if still high)


ABOUT THE CREATOR OF THIS GAME ROOM


I have been playing D&D since the late 70's, and GM'ing since the mid 80's. I have played every game edition except 4th. I also DM and play Pathfinder, and sometimes find myself getting confused on the rules/guidelines from one game system to another. Some of my players claim that this confusion is solely the result of the onset of old age, but I assure you I'm still sharp as a tack.


All I ask is that you be patient with me, and if you have any constructive criticism or comments that would help the game-play, please feel free to email me.


It is my hope that we can create a memorable gaming experience that will be unlike anything else you have ever played.


*** I DO NOT SHARE OR GIVE ANYONE THE RIGHT TO COPY OR RE-USE ANY OF MY CONTENT. THANKS! ***
This message was last edited by the GM at 18:02, Wed 06 Oct 2021.